Cozumel, Mexico

General Information

  • Native Language: Spanish
  • Currency: Mexican Peso
  • Region: Caribbean
  • Climate: Arid and dry
  • Country: Mexico
  • P Safety Rating (out of 10): 8.5

Geography and Climate

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Cozumel is an island off the coast of Mexico, a short thirty minute boat ride from Playa del Carmen, and adjacent to Cancun. This island is in the caribbean, near Cuba.

Most are pleasantly surprised by the warm climate they find in Cozumel. I have been here twice, both times in December. At this time you will be warmed by mid eighty degree weather. Don’t worry about humidity – its a nice dry heat only broken by jumping into the crystal blue waters that surround you.

One unique aspect of Cozumel for the water lovers out there is the current around the island. There is a natural phenomenon that causes the current to flow around the island. This wonderful current flow allows for aquatic life to thrive, and for the water to remain crystal clear year round.

What To Pack

Both times I have gone to Cozumel, I have stayed for a week. This is what I packed on my most recent trip:

Clothes:

  • One pajama set
  • Two pairs of shorts
    • It is pretty consistently warm in Cozumel, with very slim chances of rain. Cool clothes are the way to go!
  • One pair of jeans
    • I always bring one pair of jeans when I travel, just as a form of insurance. A “Just in case”. If it gets cold or you’re wandering about at night or in early morning, its good to have a pair of longer pants. Happy to report i did not need to wear them on this trip however.
  • Four Tank Tops
  • T-shirt
    • I always bring something with sleeves for the inevitable time in the trip where my shoulders get burned. Luckily, I didn’t get burnt on either of my trips.
  • Two Swimsuits
    • I always bring more than one swimsuit, that way I can trade off and always have a dry one. You’ll need multiple swimsuits for this trip!
  • Undergarments/socks
  • Two Pairs of flip flops
  • One Pair of Tennis Shoes
    • Though There are not a lot of hikes to do in Cozumel, if you do plan on going to the mainland during your trip at all, its a good idea to have a pair.
  • Exercise Pants
    • I always bring exercise pants for the same reason I bring tennis shoes. But they are also awesome to wear on planes, and you wont need to immediately change once you get off the plane.
  • Dress for formal evenings
    • There are some higher end restaurants in Cozumel, which I will discuss later in this article.
  • Rash Guard
    • I packed this namely for diving and snorkeling, and I was glad I brought it. A rash guard is perfect for diving here, since the water is so warm.
  • Sun Dress
    • Sun dresses are a go to fashion choice in Mexico for day wear. They’re easy and comfortable to wear in the heat.

Other:

  • Passport/ID (Don’t forget!)
  • Diving/Snorkeling Gear
    • As someone who does a LOT of snorkeling and diving on my trips, it made sense for me to invest in my own gear. If you do snorkel and dive a lot, I recommend investing in your own gear as well, as it saves you money in the long run. However, if you just want to go out for a day I will talk about different rental options.
  • Health and Beauty Products
  • Sunscreen
    • As a fair lady myself, I need sunscreen for me not to burn. Its important to protect your skin – not only for the longterm effects and cancer prevention, but to not ruin your vacation as well. The best way to ruin your vacation is by having a horrid sun burn.
  • Bug spray
    • I made this mistake on my first trip to Cozumel. There are sand fleas on some beaches, and their bites are NASTY. A travel partner and I both were dealing with the after affects for weeks. If you are someone prone to bug bites (and even if you aren’t) a good spray down is a very good idea before hitting the beach.
  • GoPro with all attachments
    • If you are serious about travel, a go pro is a great investment. I have an older version that works great.
  • Underwater Camera
    • We have a great Olympia brand underwater camera that we take on all of our tropical travels. It works great for snorkeling or cute water pictures!

Where to Stay

Cozumel is a fairly small island, but it packs a punch when it comes to diversity and difference in local, even though the majority of the island is undeveloped.

We stayed in a fantastic condominium building called Palmas Reales, in a condo owned by a man named Fulvio called Blossom (If you’d like to contact him ~ fulviocozumel@gmail.com). This condo is located just north of the downtown region, near a cute little beach called Playa Azul. It was perfect for our group due to its large size and affordability. I will note that there is not an accessible beach at this condo, but there is a ladder that leads you directly into the water, to what I would consider to be the best snorkeling on the island. The location of this condo was perfect for our uses, because it was an easy taxi drive to downtown but away from all the craziness of cruise ship passengers.

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The first region you are likely to visit is the west side, where the cruise ships come in. This is the main downtown area in Cozumel, and hosts nearly all of the nightlife for the island. This is a great area to grab a bite and some drinks, and to go shopping. There are some large hotels and resorts in this area, but I personally would not stay immediately in the downtown hub. You can get cheaper accommodations with better beach access a little ways away. Note that the cruise ships namely come in on the weekends, and this downtown hub will be crammed with tourists and peddlers during this time. It is important to note that this is also where the ferry that will take you to the mainland is located.

Immediately north and south of the downtown hub have great options for hotels and vacation condos. This is also where you will find some of the best offshore snorkeling and diving on the island. These areas have some great beaches within walking distance, that have bars and good food. However, the nightlife and shopping options in these areas are slim compared to the downtown hub.

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The East side of the island is a completely different world from the West side. In 2005 Cozumel was hit with two category 4 hurricanes that wiped out power on the east side of the island, and there hasn’t been much effort to restore said power. However, that hasn’t stopped the locals from making the east side a fun place to visit. The sandy beaches on the east end are littered with funky little bars and restaurants. Although it isn’t safe to swim on this sided of the island, the beaches are sublime and great for sunbathing with a drink. There aren’t many housing options on this side of the island however, and lack of power may turn many off of staying there regardless. However, it is a fun day trip.

Getting Around

I do not recommend trying to rent a car in Mexico unless you are from the area and are accustomed to the driving. Road laws are not regularly enforced here, and it can be very stressful and even dangerous to drive here without experience. Roads are also generally in a state of disrepair and signage can be lacking. Not to mention, it is pretty expensive to rent a car here. There are much more effective, safer ways to get around Cozumel.

The taxi system in Cozumel is very efficient. You will see taxis basically anywhere you want to go. They will be plain white vans/cars that you can signal down from anywhere. This is also generally pretty affordable, even if you are traveling a long ways. My recommendation is: when you find a cab driver you like for whatever reason, ask for his or her phone number and just call them an hour before you plan to leave. Not only is this perfect for when you have scheduled events that you need to be to at a certain time, and better for when you plan on doing day trips, but also this is a great way to get to know a local and learn even more about the culture. If you do this on your first day, you will likely be buddies with your cab driver by the end of the week and will gain so much more from your trip. Some of my companions go to Cozumel annually, and have actually saved a particular cab driver’s number for all of their trips.

There are also some city buses, however not as prevalent in this area. though this can be somewhat cheaper than taxis, I wouldn’t recommend using these either. They are not quite as safe as the taxis, and simply aren’t as efficient for getting around.

Food

One of my favorite things about visiting anywhere in Mexico is, of course, the fantastic, fresh, authentic Mexican food. I am a sucker for any type of Mexican food. Beware, however, that once you eat Mexican food in Mexico, all other attempts at replicating the cuisine may be ruined for you forever. So munch at your own discretion. Also, food here is VERY cheap. It’s possible to spend less than $10 USD on a plate of food and a drink here at most restaurants. So, I will start this section by saying that I have not had any bad food in Cozumel, but I’ll talk about some of the places I’ve eaten.

The Buccanos at night

Don’t come here unless you are willing to spend a pretty penny, as food here is quite expensive. All of the food is prepared directly by the head chef, and because of that you need to reserve a spot to dine. But let me be clear when I say the food is phenomenal. It isn’t exactly what I would call authentic Mexican cuisine – more seafood. But everything was very fresh and very good. Not only this, but you are steps away from a quiet beach front, and get to listen to the sounds of the waves as you eat. And who doesn’t like that? If you are looking for a high end night on the town, this is the place to be. Prices will range from $20-$30 USD a plate.

La Mission

Slightly less high end than The Buccanos, you will find La Mission downtown, tucked away down a street off of the main roadway. Again, the food here is fantastic, and quite cheap (though not the cheapest you will see on the island). One of my travel partners had the coconut shrimp our first time in Cozumel, and still raves about it today. The guacamole is also very good, and fresh. Not only this but you will find fun nightlife here, with music and drinks. Prices here will range from $10-$20 USD a plate.

Woody’s

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Woody’s was one of my personal favorites, and not particularly due to the food (although, again, still quite good). The nightlife here is awesome. They have live music most nights and opportunity for dancing, which for me is always a plus. Also, their drinks are very good and will keep you dancing all night! Although not the best place if you are specifically looking for a bite, its a great place to hang out. Prices will be around $10 USD a plate.

Culture Shocks

Note: Differences in culture are based on my own cultural experiences, and therefore are based on what a US citizen would be shocked by. I apologize for this one sided view, but of course I am unqualified to note differences in culture for other cultures/countries, as I am only a visitor to those countries as well.

Money

The Mexican Peso is worth considerably less than the American Dollar, which can shock first time visitors (Seeing 50 for a beer can make some shake in their boots). Not only this, but the Peso is losing value all the time. Just over my years of traveling to Mexico I have seen the value of the peso cut in half. You are also likely to see different exchange rates at different stores, so be cautious. If you have USD, then most places will accept it, and many prefer it due to it being more stable than the Mexican Peso. I would recommend that unless you are going to be very conscious about the exchange rate, stay in USD (if that is your native currency). Shopkeepers will not make you aware if you overpay them in pesos, and will consider it a “tip”.

Language

As you most likely know, the native language in Mexico is Spanish, and although almost everyone in Cozumel knows English, I HIGHLY recommend brushing up on Spanish. Many times, natives will pretend to be confused by what you are saying in English for their own benefit. Besides, you want to be prepared on the off chance that you need to interact with someone who doesn’t know your language. It is okay not to be well versed in the language, as in most of my experience natives have been more than patient with my broken Spanish. Many appreciate the attempt. I speak decent Spanish, and it has helped me on every trip I have taken to Mexico, not to mention all the money I have saved my travel group by catching swindlers speaking in Spanish.

Phrases to Know:

  • 1 to 10
  • “How Much?”
  • “I would like”
    • “to go”
    • “to eat”
    • “to buy”
  • “Where is”
    • “the bathroon”
    • “The store”
    • “The Hotel”
    • “The beach”
  • Common foods, locations, and items

The Family Culture

Hispanic culture is hugely centered around family. Family members help one another, and remain very close to one another, a trait I have always been envious of. This disposition does not stick just between the family however, but spreads out into the work force as well. Natives rely on their network and connections to survive and make money in Cozumel (and throughout Mexico), and it is something that you, as a tourist, should be aware of during your stay. If you ask your taxi driver where a good place to eat is, he is going to take you to a specific restaurant to benefit his inner group of connections. And if you asked the host at that restaurant to call you a taxi, they are going to call that specific taxi driver to benefit him. This generally is fine, but it is something to constantly be aware of, because often they do not have the tourist’s best interest at the forefront of their mind. The restaurant may be more expensive than a place right next door that serves the same food, and the taxi driver may not be the closest one to you. As a good rule of thumb, do your own research on activities and restaurants so that you may be more knowledgeable and harder to take advantage of.

“The Bargain”

As with most places in Mexico, the price you see is not the price you need to pay (except for large grocery stores, restaurants, and international chains). Shop keepers put up more expensive prices in hopes that the average tourist will be caught unawares and pay full price, but they do not expect to be paid that much. Learn the art of the deal, and barter with the shopkeeper to get sometimes more than half off the listed price.

Peddlers

Cozumel’s peddling problem is mild compared to other regions of Mexico, but still present. People may come up to you with wares and try to sell you, or mariachi bands may come up and play in attempts to get tips. If you are uninterested in the service or product, you must make that clear at the start of the interaction, then discontinue interaction immediately. As long as you keep interacting with them, they will continue to try and sell to you. Another major note with this is to NEVER buy from child peddlers. These children are pulled out of school to go sell to tourists, and we as tourists must stop buying from them in order to do our small part in getting these children back in school.

Tequila one, Tequila two, Tequila three, Tequila floor

Most tourist destinations in Mexico are catered to drinking. You can get a good drink basically anywhere you stop in Cozumel, and it is normal for tourists to start drinking earlier than they would at home. The drinking age in Mexico is 18, however this is NOT enforced whatsoever. The informal rule is if your head reaches the bar, you can drink. Tequila is the known drink of choice in Mexico, but remember to drink responsibly!

Experiences

The Beaches

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All over you will find beaches with bars on them. My travel group’s personal favorite was Plaza Azul, mostly because it was near our condo and fairly quiet. However there are many different beaches to lay out and sunbathe while drinking a margarita. I will comment on some of them below, but the map above has more of them listed.

Playa Azul:

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Playa Azul is a beach near the north side of the island with wonderful snorkeling, good food, and good drinks. Generally quiet, as it is outside the cruise ship range.

Sunset Beach:

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Sunset beach is near the downtown region of cozumel, and also has some good snorkeling/diving. Food and drinks here, as usual, are quite good and cheap, with happy hours from 1-3 and 5-7. However, you will find this beach to be quite a bit busier than some others due to its local.

Playa Uvas:

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A nice beach also near downtown, with snorkeling offered. However, this is a common day spot for cruise ship passengers and is designed as such. Costs $15 to enter.

Paradise Beach:

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(Note: We personally have not visited Paradise Beach, it isn’t our scene but I felt it was worth mentioning)

This is another popular day trip for cruise ship passengers. It is designed for water sports (as you can see in the picture) with inflatables and toys. So could be a good spot for those with kids. Also has food and drinks available. Costs $3 to enter with a required $10 spent at the restaurant. Its $18 to use the inflatables.

East Side

A day trip to the east side is something I would consider a must do while in cozumel (if all those in your group are able and willing to drink). There are unique bars littering the beaches on this side of the island, and the “vibe” is completely different than the west side. With no power, everything is much more laid back and authentic. Also, you won’t get all the craziness from being near the cruise ship port.

The best way to travel to this side of the island is by taxi. Get a taxi driver and tell them you will pay to have them bar hop down the east side of the island. This cost us about $100 for a large van for the entire day. The drivers enjoy this because it is guaranteed money and they don’t have to try to get new passengers. Also they often get free drinks and food from the bars for bringing your business (see: “the family culture”).

The first bar you happen upon will most likely be Mezcalitos Last Frontier. I enjoyed this place because of their hammocks on the beach. It was pretty nice to chill in a hammock with a great margarita for a while. They also have a nude beach in front, though I haven’t seen anyone partake in the festivities myself.

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The next bar that will come up is actually a beach club called Punta Morena. We didn’t stop here but from what I’ve heard it may actually be possible to swim here due to the rocks blocking some of the waves.

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Coconuts is a must stop on your trip down the coastline. It is up a staircase surrounded by palms, overlooking the ocean. It has a very fun atmosphere and great drinks and food. You’ll feel like you’re walking through a jungle as you enter, which is pretty unique since Cozumel has a more arid climate. They also have an interesting book full of pictures of various customers’ “coconuts” for your viewing pleasure if you wish.

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Bar Miami isn’t necessarily a place to stop and eat, but their drinks are made fresh and are absolutely delicious! This is a great stop on your trip.

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Freedom in Paradise will probably be the last stop you make on your east side tour. This great Jamaican/ Bob Marley themed bar has wonderful food and drinks, and a great outdoor area to sit and relax on the beach. 

Chankanaab

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Although my companions and I have opted not to visit Chankanaab, I believe it is still worth talking about. It is technically a cenote, but has grown to basically a theme park. Admission is $23 USD for adults, and $16 for kids. There are a lot of interesting things to do here, including snorkeling and diving, mayan ruins, a park, swimming with dolphins, etc. It is supposedly very busy and catered to tourists, which wasn’t our scene but could be fun particularly for families.

Punta Sur

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We were told by many that Punta Sur was the place to visit in Cozumel, so we took the trip while there. Honestly, I was not particularly impressed. The snorkeling was mediocre at best, and bad compared to basically anywhere else on the island. The beach was nice, and food and drinks were okay, but in my opinion you can get the same thing anywhere else on the island without an entrance fee. We did make an effort to go see the crocodiles, but didnt see anything after an hour of waiting at the tour. I will say the lighthouses were pretty, but still not worth the entrance fee for me. If however you still are interested in making the trip have a taxi driver come with you and stay the day (similar to getting to the east end) as it is harder to find taxis at this region of the island, and there are a lot of destinations within the park. Admission is $16 for adults and $10 for kids.

The Main Land

If you run out of things to do in Cozumel (unlikely) a trip to the Mainland can be fun. There is an accessible port that has ferries going to and from Playa del Carmen from 7AM to 11PM, every hour on the hour. These ferries cost about $10 USD and take about 45 minutes (You can find more information here: https://www.cozumel-tours.com/cozumel-ferry-schedule.htm ).

There are some things to know about the mainland before you travel there, if you haven’t been in mainland Mexico before. It is quite different than Cozumel, and can be a little intimidating to inexperienced travelers. Expect to need to deal with peddlers a lot more than in Cozumel, and people may or may not offer you drugs. It is also not quite as safe as Cozumel (though still safe if you take reasonable precautions). Don’t walk around by yourself, don’t take drugs or alcohol from those who offer it (duh), and don’t follow anyone, regardless of what they say. Have a plan and know where you are going before getting there. My last recommendation is to not travel in tour buses. This may seem like a great, easy option, but these buses are nearly the sole victims of cartel attacks in Mexico (it is still unlikely to occur, but better to not risk it). It is much safer and in my opinion better to hire a private shuttle van to and from wherever you are looking to go.

A small recommendation is when you get into Playa del Carmen, if you have time stop at Se̱or Frogs Рdo it. This is my favorite bar chain in Mexico, and the one in Playa del Carmen is quite large. Its a fun place to stop and get a drink.

Cenotes

A cenote is an underwater cave, and they are fairly common in Mexico. They range from swimming holes to snorkeling sites to solely dive sites. They are EXTREMELY cool and I would recommend visiting one if you have the chance.

The only cenote I have personally seen (unfortunately) is the Gran Cenote. This was more of a swim site than I had expected, but was still very fun to snorkel. This was one of the few times I have been freshwater snorkeling, and it was fun to see some Molly’s and even a few smaller catfish. This would be a perfect spot for families or groups with dissimilar interests, because part of the group can swim while the other snorkels.

Other Cenotes near this Area:

I have added some pictures of a few of the many cenotes near this area of Mexico. Cenote Casa Tortuga is actually three separate cenotes, one being an open cenote. Cenote Carwash is a more open cenote with a huge variety of fish and plantlife. Cenote Angelita is a cool dive site where dead leaves create a gas that appear like a bottom with trees poking out of it. I won’t say much else about them since I haven’t personally been to any of them, but here are some options for you all to explore!

Tulum

I knew that on my second trip to Cozumel, I needed to see some Mayan ruins. As a history buff, it had always been on my bucket list. My companions were not comfortable traveling to Chitchen Itza, due to recent safety reports and because the drive is about three hours once you reach Playa del Carmen, so we compromised and traveled to Tulum. At first I was disappointed with not seeing Chitchen Itza on this trip, but I quickly learned that Tulum was nothing to scowl at. This beautiful Mayan ruins is located about two hours drive from Playa del Carmen, right on the beach. The ruins are in good condition and exciting to view. Not only this, but the town is unique and has a fun culture. Here is a good place to see the dance of the fliers, which is a must see when you travel to Mexico.

Admittance is only a few dollars, and once you get in hop on the trolly that takes you to the main entrance (otherwise its a pretty long walk). You can pay to have a tour guide but we opted to adventure around on our own (you can always listen in on other tours if they are talking about something interesting). Bring sunscreen, because it gets pretty hot, and keep an eye out for iguanas!

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Diving and Snorkeling

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You would be hard pressed to find bad snorkeling or diving in Cozumel. The water is full of fish and coral alike, and you will likely see some turtles. As explained before, Cozumel is unique in the fact that its current wraps around the island, bringing clean water and nutrients to the coral and fish life.

Papa Hogs was recommended to us by a friend for all snorkeling and scuba, and they did not disappoint. We were only able to snorkel on this trip due to some of our group not being scuba certified, but the experience was still wonderful. We went with a guide named Manuel, who was able to free dive down to nearly sixty feet just for us to get some good pictures of aquatic life. Also, food and drinks were included in our trip and the food was wonderful. I have also heard good things about ScubaTony.

As far as dive/scuba rentals go, you can get equipment all over the island. Whether or not it is good equipment is up for debate. Ive heard good reviews of Deep Blue. We rented from Black Shark and I wouldn’t recommend them again. The gear was old and worn. If you arent planning on doing any snorkeling or diving besides paid trips, just rent gear from the place you are going with.

I hope you all found this information helpful! Until next time, live free my fellow travel bugs!

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